BRACE THAT BUGGER & DOOR GAPS
Probably the most talked about subject on a TR6 bodywork… door gaps….!
Mine were not different to many cars… On the B posts, close at the bottom, about 3-4mm to about 20mm at the top…! On the A posts, even gaps all the way, just a bit big.
For mine i think it was a poorly repaired rear chassis section not taking into account the hogging for the B gaps and just badly aligned wing/door for the A posts.
Mine were not different to many cars… On the B posts, close at the bottom, about 3-4mm to about 20mm at the top…! On the A posts, even gaps all the way, just a bit big.
For mine i think it was a poorly repaired rear chassis section not taking into account the hogging for the B gaps and just badly aligned wing/door for the A posts.
So once some of the stripping was completed I made up a couple of brackets and welded these to the inside of the A & B posts. I then got some threaded bar and used this to determine my door gaps. The rear tub bolts located under the rear of the boot floor and the rear shelf were loosened and then nut on threaded bar were slowly and equally on both side wound in till I was happy with the gaps. By having this adjustment secured to the inside of the doors I was able to refit the doors to check the gaps as I wound the nuts in. These were secured with a second locking nut, gaps checked before welding in an additional bar to keep things locked in.
Eventually when i’m ready to remove the braces I can cut out the ridged bar and then let the treaded rod off slowly so to minimise the body springing back…. just a theory !
Eventually when i’m ready to remove the braces I can cut out the ridged bar and then let the treaded rod off slowly so to minimise the body springing back…. just a theory !